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Available for season 24/25.

Thanks!

Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful.

It’s scares most actually….but I’ve yet to meet anyone who has started and say they wish they hadn’t. It’s literally transformative to one’s experience on snow. Sure you need to learn it however the learning curve is extremely fast. Contact and we can help you out. And yes tuning the edges makes them thinner however for most skiers the ski wears out long before the edge wears out.

In this case we grab the plate or plate under the AFD's with the centre vice.

Tuning a new pair of skis takes approximately 1.5 to 2 hours due to set up shown in the video. After that daily ski day maintenance can be done in in 15mins.

Great to hear!

You're best to reach out to them to get the specifics of their iron. You're correct that our iron has a touch pad to adjust the temperature. We have two options 15mm or 25mm soleplate, both poured solid aluminum and CNC machined flat for the best wax application.

There's far too many variables at hand here to give you a duration in time. The 'idea' behind this tip is to 'test it our for yourself' to see if you find it helpful. As stated, the 'concept' is for those who may not be able to create the same edge angles as a World Cup skier and therefore struggling on ice or extremely hard snow surfaces.

@@sidecuttuning - Thanks for the tip! I use 3° side edge & 0.7° base edge, prob with a degree of burr as I don't use a gummi, and find the sharp compound edge is noticeably dulled after a day on icy snow. Would I be better using a lesser side edge, say like 2°, to produce a more durable compound edge?

@@Benzknees not if you have the skill level and strength to benefit from the 3 degree. It'll hold better on if you can create larger edge angles.

Use all brushes and fibertex and most importantly... Wax, ski, wax, ski repeat.

@@sidecuttuningthx for the fast reply!

What do you mean by your “non-master” hand? Best to email so we can help!

Glad it was helpful!

1) scrape factory wax off 2) base cleaner optional but better to wax and scrape, then re-wax 3) Use brass or soft steel, followed by horsehair and fibre-tex to open the base. Yes you can use the same Nylon brush and follow with a softer Nylon if desired. This is all pertaining to Nanox wax.

Thank You very much!! Really great to hear it's helpful to you!!

You would use the 0.7 degree guide.

@@sidecuttuning would it be fine for 0,75 base edge ? I think it will not reach the edge ? Or any kind of technics as the angle 0.75 is more open Thanks for your feedback

@@Steph-iw3hr To know if your base bevel is at 0.75 degrees you'd need to measure. It's very likely the 0.7 degree will work perfectly. This is what we recommend. Hope this helps. For more info email us.

Yes you can definitely do this as well.

They work exactly the same on a snowboard.

Thanks for your FB! Skis come with a very average tune (out of the wrapper) typically and need to be 'set up' based on ones skill level, strength and the type of ski/skiing you're doing. We believe getting the utmost FUN and PERFORMANCE out of your skis is the goal and tuning is an easy and major contributor to achieving both of these. Give tuning a test...you may never want to ski again without proper tuning.

Damon. Click this link and watch step # 3 of this video: www.sidecut.com/advanced-ski-tuning-videos.html

Great to hear you've become a SIDECUT fan! If there's wax on the base scrape it off, use Fibre-Tex and Brushes, then re-wax. If it's bare, remove any dirt from grinding with the spray and then brush/fibre-tex and then wax. Hope this helps.

Thanks for your FB! It really is that easy, more and more people are starting to realize this. Once you start you'll never stop because the benefits are to great vs. not doing it. All the best!

Watch our 'advanced tuning tips' here: www.sidecut.com/advanced-tuning-tips-videos.html

Watch our 'How To Tune Your Skis' video Step #3 www.sidecut.com/advanced-ski-tuning-videos.html Then watch the 3 other tuning tips in relation to removing your sidewalls in our 'www.sidecut.com/advanced-tuning-tips-videos.html and our www.sidecut.com/new-valuable-tuning-tips.html No, it's very easy when you follow the advice in those aforementioned videos.

The first way to know is when it doesn't cut anymore. If you're diamond is clean but won't cut then replace it. Here's how to clean them: www.sidecut.com/product/SEP_15.html

@@sidecuttuning - Couldn't it be not cutting because the edge is case hardened or at a different angle to the angle set on the guide? Are there any visual indicators to look for on the diamond stone to tell you it's time to replace it?

Standard base bevel for skiers is 0.7 degrees typically and 2.0 degrees of side bevel. Snowboards are typically 1.0 or 1.5 degrees on the base edge and 1-2 degrees on the side edges (free-ride that is, not competitive riders).

No, you'll need a base bevel of your preference. Most likely 0.5 degrees on a SL ski.

You can change the angle on the base edge with a diamond stone. If this is your goal we recommend a 400 grit stone and finish with 600 or 1000 (if possible) but not mandatory.

The "How To Tune YOUR Skis' video uses only the tools found in our INTRO Tuning Kit the first 3 steps of the video and for Step 4 we use the items found in the 'BASIC Waxing Kit'. If you had these two kit + a set of vices you have everything you need to follow the steps of this video.

@@sidecuttuning awesome, thanks for the response!

www.sidecut.com/product/FL_WC_BASE_150.html Here's the link to that file on our website.

Maroon = COURSE. 320 grit (removing micro hairs in new skis or freshly ground skis and other base repairs, structuring before and after waxing, sidewalls, topsheet detailing etc. Gray = MEDIUM 600 grit (finer version to the details mentioned with the 320 grit). White = Very FINE No grit (used as a final finish after waxing mostly, any details on the skis that new polishing). Hope this helps.

@@sidecuttuning how does the fine, white fibertex compare to soft brushes/cork. Can you use it instead of a nylon/horse hair brush for polishing? or rather after?

You can use it before and/or after but it's not really a substitute for brushing. We recommend you still brush.@@mmmmkkk

Thanks very much! We wish you a great season as well!!

Thanks for the feedback. This video is intended for those at home 😊 and anyone who wants a safer more enjoyable experience on-snow. Ski tuning is directly related to improving your skills on-snow and as coaches we want to demystify tuning for people because it's actually incredibly easy with the correct tools and information. Yes, one could say these are the basic steps for a 'race prep' however they are the exact steps done for a recreational weekend skier (minus a few nuances) whose goal is to have more fun and improve their turns. Our sport is so costly that in our opinion most are missing out on SO much when you don't tune your gear. We're here to give anyone interested the confidence and knowledge to DIY. And yes, you're right it can be very tricky to find really knowledgeable ski shops that tune well. However, that has changed a lot over the past few years and if you search a little you can find shops that do really great work. All the best!

Read your reply and re watched your video. I understand you want to sell your product, which looks on point. However you're misleading the viewer with the title. This is not diy unless you have some experience. Do you offer clinics on tunning? If so I'd like to swing by and check out your product.

How have I never heard of you!?! Stuck in the basement inhaling to much ptex smoke I guess. Just checked out your website and I wish the boss would have let me go to SIA back when it was legit. I'm going to still stick by my comments though. Peace

Thanks for the FB. Our four step system has helped many. Yes, we offer tuning workshops for all abilities. In fact, our 'model' has always been based around 'free education'. It's our belief that skiing and boarding are both way more fun when your gear is tuned correctly. PM us if you're interested in knowing more about us and/or our products. It's much easier to discuss on the phone or in-person. @@grujenkins

Our opinion is simple - ALL new skis need to be tuned to match the skill, strength and personal preference of the skier to get the most out of them.

Always start with a files and diamond stones first and one gummy stone. You can add the others stones if desired later.

Electric machines don't replace your hand tools. They are simply another tool that some prefer to sharpen the side-edges on skis and boards. The machine you're referring to comes with a 600 grit stone and that is ALL you need. If you're looking at the Carrot machine we recommend two stones: a 120 grit and the ceramic stone. Hope this helps.

@sidecuttuning I'm so sorry I left this comment under the wrong video! . I meant to write this under the video for tyrolit file.

Good question. You need to remove your sidewall (or at least some of it) prior to sharpening. Depending how much sidewall you remove will determine how many times you can sharpen before removing more sidewall. Hope this helps.

@sidecuttuning so you're recommending removing sidewall prior to every true Sharpening? (I assume not when just using diamond stone. Just when filing?)

You remove sidewall if you see the colour of your sidewall on the diamond stone (or any stone) OR in the teeth of the file. You'll need to have your sidewall tool handy ALL THE TIME because you don't want the sidewall to interfere with your ability to get the edge(s) sharp. @@carterfan80

@sidecuttuning thanks. Thats the clearest answer I've been able to get! Videos are great!

Thanks very much. The point really is you need a sidewall remover (you can't do a proper job without one) and you'll use it when needed....which will be a lot!!@@carterfan80

Yes it is 'possible' to dull your edges using steel and brass brushes after sharpening depending how hard you push and/or the technique you're using. You could brush with your brass/steel brushes then tape the base prior to sharpening and use only soft brushes after sharpening.....OR if that's not an option you could wax and brush, then tape the base and sharpen after. See our 'advanced tuning tip' specific to this.

Thanks for the quick reply. Advanced waxing tips are hard to come by. I have always tried to sharpen before waxing to keep my diamond stones from clogging up with wax. Speaking of which- any tips for cleaning diamond stones? Thx again. @@sidecuttuning

@@mchristopher Yes we find this the best: www.sidecut.com/product/SEP_15.html edge polish/diamond cleaner.

Good idea! Have you tried this? Send us a photo if you don't mind.

How wide is the side without the file (facing the hand)? At least in the video it looks like there’s space to put a couple small countersunk holes. I’m in USA, the shipping is as much as the actual unit so I’ll have to wait until I’m ready to buy more tools. I have a mobile tuning shop so I’m starting to get ideas for improving next year’s setup.

This is our recommendation as well as Nanox's. For cleaning you can use a mixture high 40% denatured alcohol to 60% distilled water. You can play with the mixture.

Thanks very much for the feedback also.

@@sidecuttuning Thanks for the quick reply (and processing of the recent orders)!

@@RolandYong Of course! Here to help those who want it.

The same way. You're only protecting the base where there is potential wear from the guides/tools.

No that is not likely. They're up for hours every time you ski.

You can cut them or sand them on fine belt sander.

Low adhesive painters tape.

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yea this is a stupid video